In Sri Lanka, Pakistan and India itself, William Dalrymple searches for evidence of Kali Yug, the Hindu "age of darkness." Venturing to places rarely visited by foreigners, he travels deep into guerilla territory with the Tamil Tigers, visits Benazir Bhutto and meets the drug lords of the North West Frontier. He unveils a region where the strengths and problems of both modernity and tradition remain to be reconciled. The result is this engrossing, eagle-eyed and utterly enthralling collection.